Casting- Quality casting can significantly increase your success when fly fishing for bass. Being able to cast a distance (40 or more feet) is a huge asset, and distance plus accuracy is an invaluable combination. Basic bass fly fishing starts with the angler facing the bank and casting to structure. Short casts perpendicular to the bank are often the first look, and then you start to look at your angled casts- left and right. 90% of the time you are going to fish a standard overhead fly cast, but you will run into a situation when you just can’t get the presentation you want and you will need to switch things up.

Roll Cast- One of the first casts a fly angler learns is the roll cast. This is useful when fishing an indicator rig and can get the fly about 20 feet in front. You can also use the roll cast to free hung up flies, and to reposition your fly line to set up for an overhead cast. The roll cast is always integrated into your casting repertoire and is often done without second thought.

Back hand cast- I call this the Youtube cast (it kind of looks cool and you can often see youtubers flinging bugs off drift boats using this cast). You are casting with your dominant hand, but the cast appears to be directed behind the angler (this is just body position and the dominant shoulder is out in front). This one is useful, because you can track the fly the entire way, and make sure your loop is as tight or loose as you want it to be. You might want to use this cast if you are afraid of getting hung up (which happens to everybody!)

Water load/ reverse water load- definitely underrated. You can generate a significant amount of line speed when you are picking the line off the water. When done correctly, it negates the need for false casting (something everyone does too much of). This becomes especially useful when you miss a topwater blowup and you didn’t sting the fish. You should be able to pick the line off the water and send another cast in that same spot or further. A reverse waterload is useful in tight cover. It can be used in a similar fashion as the “youtube cast” (backhand). Just let some line out behind and fling it forward; following the track the entire time. A water loaded cast is also good for beginner anglers, and if you have current; you can let the current carry the fly line out and pick it up and make your cast.

Bow and arrow- I watched Joe Humphries execute a bow and arrow cast, and knew that it was something I needed to learn how to do. The B & A factors in when the quarters get tight. For example there may be an overhanging tree and you want to sneak your diver in there for a couple of twitches. You don’t get much line out (a good cast can extend a little more than the length of your rod). So the retrieve will be minimal, but you can utilize the plop (for topwater) or the fall (for weighted flies). It takes practice, but make sure you take a couple of shots every fishing trip.

Side arm pitch- I don’t know if this qualifies as a fly fishing cast. By dropping the angle of the rod (lower toward the water, like a side arm pitcher) you can get your fly under overhangs. I have never really been able to skip a fly, and the side arm cast doesn’t produce the best presentation, but it gets the job done. If you have a little more clearance and you need a little more distance (than what the bow and arrow can provide) you should consider the side arm.

Reach cast- After you master your overhead (standard) and roll cast, start practicing your reach cast and pile cast. It will make you a much better trout angler, but also is very useful for bass fishing. By utilizing the reach you can change the angle of your retrieve; allowing your fly to spend more time running parallel to the bank. Very really can you cast perfectly parallel with the bank. The open water prevents hangups, and positioning your boat/kayak/tube parallel with the bank will spook the fish. So you generally want to stay about a cast length from the bank.